When you first use LiveJournal, you see the default scheme (called Horizon), but you can change to a different scheme at the Viewing Options page.
However, the page is now titled "My Account Settings" and the option is not shown on the linked page (which is the main "Account" tab) but rather on the "Display" tab.
The link should be updated, as well as the link text. Is "the Display tab of the My Account Settings page" too long? Maybe just "My Account Settings"?